I got there earlier just in case he tried to head out early. and says I'm the first person to ever ask for something like that in all his time as a SA! Just WOW! So I told him I'm coming to get my car after work and he better not charge me a damn inspection fee cause I wont be paying it. So Friday June 12th I got the SA on the phone while at work and he just fed me insane BS! He said that there's no CPO document with guidelines or list of whats covered and that its always changing. Sorry i know im late but i had to come back and finish this thread with what happened and the utter BS and run around I was given by the dealer and BMWNA. I will not change my sig because CPO is utter useless BS garbage! Needless to say.it did not work out. If this works out, time to change your sig? They already bent me over for $300 to change a cornering light bulb and 'program' it not even 2 months ago.freaking ridiculous! So what do you guys think, do I have a good case here? I really don't understand why they're giving me shit and trying to jip me like I'm a clueless old lady who doesn't know jack. I texted him to have the CPO document printed out and be ready to show me where it explicitly says the lock electrical issue wont be covered. When I dropped off the car I clearly demonstrated to the SA how the lock doesn't work with the remote or central button, but it works manually.so clearly an electrical issue!! The SA left the dealership before I got out of work so I'm going to try and see him tomorrow to fight this BS. saying not only is the lock not going to be covered under CPO warranty, but that they will charge me a $225 'inspection' fee to just see what is even wrong with it! Are you freaking kidding me? Inspection fee for something that is clearly not working?įurious I call him back but couldn't get ahold of him, so I look up the latest CPO brochure to see what is or isn't covered and find this PDF:Īnd right there on page 23 it clearly states 'Electrical' issues are covered under CPO warranty. So I finally took the car to the dealer yesterday figuring CPO will cover this door lock electrical issue and I think BMW or the dealer are trying to pull one on me.Įven the SA himself was certain it would be covered but today he calls me and leaves a voice mail (I was swamped at work and couldn't answer). In general it's easiest to diagnose electrical issues from the affected component backwards, once fuses are checked of course. No power, and it's likely wiring, a fuse, or computer. If you have power to the actuator, it means the actuator is the problem. The easiest and best way IMO to test this is to pull the door panel and check voltage at the actuator with a multimeter or test light. When you open the door to unlock or manually lock it, you're doing the same thing, only by hand. It mechanically moves the locking mechanism. Yes it's essentially a motor for all intensive purposes. I'm expecting CPO warranty to cover this issue. Tomorrow I'll finally call my SA and set up an appointment at the dealer, been swamped with work and wasn't able to take the car in this week. Just to confirm the lock actuator is the 'motor' basically yeah? Or is there a separate electric motor too? Yea you're probably right, since that's all that's left after the electrical stuff. I think there are different audible symptoms for example when a window regulator breaks. Just a guess but the fact that it sounds different than when mine broke might not mean that yours isn't broken. I'm still betting its your lock actuator. So does CPO warranty cover something like this? The SAs at my local dealer have been pretty useless thus far and Ive been getting kinda frustrated since almost every issue I bring up is conveniently for them not covered under CPO warranty I actually stood outside and put my ear to the handle and locked and unlocked it a bunch of times with the fob to see if I hear anything, I couldn't really tell since the actuator for the trunk is so damn loud that i cant isolate the sound enough to tell if i hear anything from the door's actuator. Thanks, so it seems its not the actuator but an electrical issue since i can still manually lock and unlock the door. I checked all the fuses before hand but nothing seemed wrong so that plus the fact that I could hear the noise of the actuator made me conclude it wasn't an electrical issue. It was because it couldn't lock that I immediately made an appointment with the dealer to have it fixed. My door lock was stuck in the open position and the manual key wouldn't work. FWIW when my driver side door lock actuator went I could hear a faint noise when I used the fob or pressed door handle (I have comfort access) like it was trying to open or close but couldn't.
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